Sustainable food confronts elitist past 2.12.08
BERKELEY, Calif. — The lush, creamy flesh of the date melts on the tongue, pairing perfectly with the locally grown tangerine’s fresh, almost fanciful flavor. Served by themselves with the leaves and stems still attached to the citrus, delicate tastes marry with remarkable textures to leave the restaurant-goer in a state of ecstasy. In other words: “Churchill-Brenneis Orchard Kishu tangerines and Flying Disc Ranch Barhi dates, $7.50.” Dinner at the Berkeley, Calif.-based Chez Panisse is more than just a rhapsodic gourmet experience.
