culturally conflicted fusion fizzles at marius
In a Seinfeld episode entitled “The Café” that originally aired in 1991, a new restaurant, the Dream Café, run by a Pakistani man, Babu Bhatt, who serves Mexican, Italian and Chinese dishes. “He’s all over the place. That’s why no one is going in,” Jerry observes.
Marius, located at the corner of Crown and Temple streets, is plagued by the same problem — a culinary identity crisis. The Italian-born, German-raised manager/owner, who enjoys going to South America on vacation, told me in gruff Bavarian notes that his restaurant was “95 percent Italian.” One look at the menu, or one...
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