WINE
In New Haven, the idea of Dionysian delight comes in plastic bottles and boxes. But in this little Elm City, there’s a beacon of hope for the fading sommelier creeping underneath the salacious beer-craving post-adolescent in all of us. From the outside, Wine Thief looks like a “paradiso del vino” — an urban oasis: spacious and bright, neatly assorted with all the shades of burgundy, rosé and marigold. After a fake tour of the store, I did some “thinking” and pretended to know what I was buying, expecting the best four wines on the planet from a grab bag of glass bottles. After sipping some...